Isparta & Lake Egirdir
Introduction
The beautiful Lake Egirdir
Isparta is a city in western Turkey and the capital of Isparta province. The city's population was 222,556 in 2010 and its elevation is 1035 m. It is known as the "City of Roses". Isparta is well-connected to other parts of Turkey via roads. Antalya lies 130 km to the south and Eskisehir is 350 km to the north. Isparta has a hot Mediterranean climate in summer and chilly, rainy winters, especially due to its elevation. The city lies close to a fault line and is thus prone to violent earthquakes.
We chose Isparta and Egirdir because it lies well off the beaten the tourist path and even local Turkish people gave us perplexed looks when we announced our plan to travel there. This did not put us of, of course, and we were thrilled with being almost the only foreigners in town. In one week we did not hear another European or English accent. The city has much to offer with ancient mosques, a buzzing market and street scene and incredibly friendly locals always willing to help out.
The streets are buzzing with local activity
The jewel, however, lies with Lake Egirdir. Why not many foreign visitors seek out this stunning and beautiful place is beyond me. Perhaps it’s too far from the coast? Less than a 30 minute bus journey from Isparta and the beautiful light blue waters open up in front of you. The population of Eğirdir was 19,469 in 2010, but swells in the summer months as part-time residents return for the holidays. Eğirdir is a fishing community and local residents fish in Lake Eğirdir year round. From the small lakeside town of Eğirdir, a causeway extends into the placid blue lake waters to connect two small islands to the mainland.
Egirdir was one of the main highlights of our trip in Turkey and I will outline just why you should visit too in the coming paragraphs….
The lakshore of Egirdir close to the town centre
Getting There & Around
From Fethiye we took a bus with Kamil koc from the main bus station (Otogar). We booked the tickets online and in Turkish. Once again, if you change the language settings to English it becomes more expensive! So use the ever handy translator app and take yourself through each step of the booking process in Turkish. The journey took five and a half hours with one 30 minute stop for lunch. Tickets cost 70 lira (€5.20, Nov 2021). Like previous journeys, the seats were very comfortable, spacious and five stars. An attendant handed out water, juices and snacks during the trip. Every seat has a charging point and TV screen with a curtain to block the sunlight.
Notice the difference in time if you drive or take the bus
I would recommend using Moovit once again to get around Isparta. It gives the exact directions and bus you need to take. The app is very reliable and Turkish people use it over Google. To reach Lake Egirdir just simply visit the bus station and buy your tickets from the Isparta Petrol Turizm company. I recall one girl had decent English. Try have everything translated on your phone first to avoid problems or delays. We bought our tickets the day before travel.
The Essential Bucket List
Isparta City
1. Golcuk Nature Park
The landscape is known for its volcanic cones, as well as its flora and fauna. Golcuk Park is 12 km from Isparta city centre and easily reached by public transport. The main species of tree is black pine, cluster pine, acacia, oak, cedar, spruce and white oak. Badger, fox, rabbit, falcon, partridge, pigeon, quail, carp, snake, and frog are the main animals found inhabiting the area. The best time to visit is between April and October.
One reviewer notes: ‘it’s a really nice lake. You can hire a bike and cycle there if you are up for it. There is an entrance fee for cars. (21 Liras, November 2020) Take your time and enjoy your time away from hustle and bustle’ (Adana, 2020).
Golcuk entrance
Enjoy the natural scenery and peace but close to the city
2. Sagalassos Archaeological Site
Also known as Selgessos and Sagalassos, is an archaeological site in southwestern Turkey, about 100 km north of Antalya, and 30 km from Burdur and Isparta. In Roman Imperial times, the town was known as the "first city of Pisidia", a region in the western Taurus mountains, currently known as the Turkish Lakes Region. During the Hellenistic period it was already one of the major Pisidian towns.
A visit to the ancient well preserved city is a must see
As a result of recurring epidemics after the middle of the 6th century and related general decline of the economic system in Asia Minor, the city started to lose population. Large parts of the town were abandoned and the urban life was replaced by a more rural way of living. In the 7th century AD, the situation was further aggravated due to continuous Arab raids and new epidemics when the city was struck once more with a heavy earthquake, most probably around 590 AD.
Despite this disaster, recent research has proven that the city remained occupied until the 13th century in the form of isolated and well-defended hamlets. The abandoned ancient city was then rapidly covered under vegetation and erosion layers. As a result of its remote location, Sagalassos was not really looted in later periods and remained to be one of the best preserved ancient cities in the Mediterranean.
The high altitude, at which the site is located, has made Sagalassos a unique example of a well preserved provincial town of the Roman Imperial period. In the case of ashlar monuments up to 90% of the original building elements can be recovered during excavations and this provides unique possibilities to represent a classical city to the public.
The geophysical mapping of this site during 2004 season has identified already over 50 kilns and workshops documented a thousand years of pottery production, first serving a regional market, but eventually becoming a real industry for export throughout the Eastern Mediterranean.
Getting there: You can take a minibus / dolmus from the bus station or a cheap taxi from Isparta. For more detailed information on this impressive site, visit: https://www.planetware.com/turkey/exploring-the-sagalassos-ruins-lake-egirdir-tr-1-26.htm
One reviewer noted: ‘A fascinating archaeological site at a height of 4800-5300ft in the Western Taurus mountains near Isparta. It can be reached by dolmus from Isparta to the village of Aglasun but it is a 7km long, hot walk up to the site itself built on natural terraces 1000ft above the village. Some buildings and statues on the site have been reconstructed although much of the ancient site remains in a well-preserved state’ (Scousemouse, 2018).
3. Walk from bus station to city centre
We stayed at a pleasant Airbnb apartment, a five minute walk from the bus station (otogar). The main avenue that connects the bus station with the city centre is called Suleyman Demirel Cd. The walk is busy and active as its a main artery into the city. However, it’s far from crowded like Istanbul. Lots of local shops, supermarkets, barbers and cafes line the street with some ancient mosques and a number of statues dotted along the way to keep you busy. We recommend making a stop at the Book Cafe Vintage for a relaxing coffee and atmosphere and Burc Firin for their deserts. Both are near the bus station.
Excellent cozy cafe
We visited a couple of times, warm staff welcome, great for students or working online, delicious coffee and cakes, large food menu too.
You will pass by the Evler Cami Mosque on 3101. Sk. No.4, Sanayi Cami Mosque on Tunk Sk 12 and the beautiful Kutlubey Cami on Dalboyunoglu Cd. No.5 in the city centre which was built in 1429 and rebuilt in 1904. This is a central and historical mosque with a burial tomb at the entrance. The mosque collapsed in 1922 during an earthquake and was once again rebuilt. Don’t forget to see the Terminal Cami Mosque right next to the bus station. It’s a huge, stunning and unmissable feature that you simply can’t miss when you arrive at the station. The interior is simply decorated with several very tall pillars on each corner outside.
The impressive Terminal Cami Mosque
The street divides into two new sections near the centre- Mimar Sinan Cd. Taking the left route, you will reach a lovely central square covered in trees and cafes. The area is great to relax with a tea or coffee and watch the locals. Just before you reach the square, one of the side streets on the right is basically ‘cafe street’. Cartoon Art cafe is excellent for breakfast and cheap too. Don’t miss the sprawling and busy street market in the city centre that takes over quite a few streets. The produce is fresh and very reasonably priced. The far end of the market sells clothes.
Lake Egirdir
4. Hike to Akpinar viewpoint
This hike was the absolute highlight of our trip to Egirdir. Once we arrived at the small bus station next to the lake at around 9am, we started our walk towards Akpinar. Add the directions into google and just simply follow. Walk along the lake shore for about 30 minutes and enjoy taking pictures before the ascent begins. Without stopping, it takes around one hour and twenty minutes to complete the walk. We reached the restaurant at the top of the mountain in just over two hours.
Steady uphill walk: take many breaks, enjoy the view and drink some water
At each and every turn and bend there is a beautiful and gorgeous view over the lake and the Yesilada / Can Ada islands which is now a strip of land jutting out into the lake, connected by a road. We passed by one restaurant on the way, about halfway up. The weather was clear and sunny and mild. The only people we passed were locals driving past, looking at us quite strangely probably wondering why these two foreigners were breaking their necks climbing this mountain. We also met one or two older people hawling materials in wheelbarrows, much heavier than their body weight and of course very friendly dogs.
Excellent air quality and an amazing view all the way up
We arrived at a small local village with a mosque, a few houses and a group of old ladies sitting in the main square gossiping. Neon signs will direct you to the restaurant and viewpoint. The restaurant has quite a long name and goes something like this; Akpinar Seyir Terasi, Yoruk Cadiri. You will be welcomed inside by several very friendly workers, only too happy to meet new foreigners and practice a little English. Around 4-5 tables outside were occupied with locals enjoying some tea, brunch and the stunning view.
The restaurant
A warm welcome by staff and a good extensive menu
Delicious pancakes and Turkish coffee
Well worth hiking to the top for the food and view.
Pretty exhausted, we dropped down at a table and admired the feat we had just achieved while looking at the menu. We ordered some sweet pancakes, tea and coffee which were all delicious. The price was very reasonable considering the location. We took some pictures with the excited workers and exchanged Instagram as we helped to promote the restaurant. I can’t emphasise enough just how stunning the view is, with the light blue shimmering lake and mountain backdrop. You could easily sit here for hours.
The stunning view of Lake Egirdir and towards Baglar on the southern end of the lake
The view of Egirdir town and the causeway
5. Stay at a pension along the causeway
The day before we arrived at Egirdir, we booked a last minute room at one of the local pension / bed and breakfasts on the causeway. Room and breakfast was very reasonable at just €25 per night at the Sehsuvar Peace Pension. We made the return hike from Akpinar into town at a much faster pace, considering it was all downhill. My legs really appreciated it! From the small and bustling town centre just follow the road around to the right and keep walking along the narrow road connecting the town with the causeway. Either side of the walk features breathtaking views of the lake and mountains with small fishing boats out for a catch.
Peaceful and quiet bed and breakfast with a wonderful owner
We passed by a couple of small local cafes, hugging the lakefront which were not busy. Locating the pension was pretty easy in the quiet and lovely village. It took us about 20 minutes from the bus station area. The owner of the pension met us in the garden with a warm smile and welcome. He was, perhaps into his 70’s and could not speak any English, bar a few words. However, his communication skills were impressive and we managed to figure out roughly 80% of what he was explaining to us regarding the room and local recommendations.
The room was spotlessly clean with wooden floors and homely touches. We felt instantly relaxed here. Our bathroom was just outside the room and was also clean. Some of the empty rooms appear to have an ensuite if you prefer to book one. The owner and his wife live downstairs in their own private apartment. We met his wife twice, just briefly, and she had an extremely warm and inviting smile which left us with an excellent impression. I often wondered what kind of life stories, joys and heartaches these two people might have if only we were on the same language level.
A delicious homemade breakfast
Lots of flavour, cheese, tomatoes, bread, jams, honey and eggs.
After a very comfortable and cozy sleep, we woke up energized with the sound of birds singing and the sun filling the room. I realised a few more days would have been just perfect. The breakfast was in the garden and the table was already set at 8am when we arrived. It was chilly but the air was fresh and the owner served us hot Turkish tea. The meal was a delicious range of home cooked bread, jams, fantastic honey, ham and eggs with the usual side of tomatoes. It was extremely tasty, fresh and satisfying.
As the owner served us the meal, his hand was shaking which gave the impression of a hidden illness and, once again, left me wondering about the life troubles of this lovely couple with lots of questions; how did Covid-19 impact you and your business? When and where did you guys meet? Have you always lived here? What about your children? Alas none of these questions were answered and we departed that morning, contemplating what the future had in store for us…
Turkish coffee with a view.
A relaxing cafe very close to our Pension on the causeway
6. Enjoy the causeway!
I would recommend a few days along the causeway to really detach from work and city life and get back to nature. The town centre is very close if you need some variety in terms of shopping, people, restaurants and markets. You can easily walk around the causeway in an hour or so but do this slowly and take pictures of the beautiful views. A number of restaurants remained closed, perhaps due to the season and perhaps due to the pandemic.
A local lady calls out for boat tours on the lake in a very small and rickety boat which looks like a lot of fun. We ate lunch at Halikarnas which was just average and nothing special. However, they do have amazing views over the lake. Fish is a big thing on the causeway and considered a speciality. The Yesilida Big Fish restaurant was recommended to us by a couple of people. Next to Big Fish is a large group of geese who became a little crazy running towards us the next morning. Perhaps it was past their breakfast time and they were waiting to be fed! Numerous lazy and friendly cats also reside in the area.
A couple of other pensions appeared to be busy along the lake and a few people cycled past us on rented bikes. The evening was very quiet and we walked into town for a meal. The return walk, although dark, felt very safe. The town in general had an extremely safe feel to it. There are no large supermarkets on the causeway so if you require anything for a longer stay, you can pick it up in town.
7. Hizirbey Camii Mosque
Originally a Seljuk warehouse and built in 1237, this simple stone structure in the centre became a mosque in 1308 under Hamidoğulları emir Hızır Bey. It features a clerestory (an upper row of windows) above the central hall and new tiles around the mihrab (niche indicating the direction of Mecca). Note the finely carved wooden doors and stone portal, and the minarets' faded blue tile trim.
One reviewer noted: ‘We, as a family, visited this mosque today. It’s a huuge place. I liked the aesthetically pleasing ceiling and tiles, wooden columns. Also great woodcraft inside and outside.Spent minutes just sitting and looking at it. Such a lovely atmosphere it was! It was hard to leave for me. Highly recommend’ (Zeynep, Feb 2021).
8. The castle and street market
There is no written account of the construction date of the castle. According to local tradition it may be as old as the Lycian Kingdom(6-7 centuries) but judging from the masonry it was constructed or reconstructed during the Roman Empire or the Byzantine Empire eras. According to the inscription of the castle, it was restored by Dundar in 1307. During the Ottoman Empire era the castle was a small military post. Because of the urban settlement on the ruins, the size of the original castle is not known, however, the area of the inner castle is about 4,500 square metres.
Reviewer notes: ‘It offers a panoramic environment. Best place for watching the Lake of Eğirdir and the surrounding mountains’ (Ahmet, Dec 2016).
The street market opens quite early in the morning and hugs the area surrounding the castle. In fact, it’s fairly difficult to get close to the old building or take some decent pictures. However, the market has a pleasant atmosphere and vibe with dozens of local people selling their fresh produce and clothing at low prices. You can get almost everything you need here for a short stay and the food we bought tasted very fresh and just out of the ground!
Location: Sanayi, Uzun Çarşı Sk., 32500 Eğirdir/Isparta.
9. Egirdir Lake
Eğirdir Lake, is the 4th largest lake in Turkey with a surface area of 517 sq. km. The lake has an altitude of 1000 meter above sea level. It is in the middle of the district centre among Sultan Mountains. The small part of the lake is in the north which is called Hoyran Lake and the other part in the south and called Eğirdir Lake. Both lakes are connected to each other via Hoyran Pass. Like an extension of the peninsula, which Eğirdir is located on, there are two small islands, namely Can Island and Green Island. Due to the recent diminish of water these islands are connected to Eğirdir town.
Lake Egirdir, which is also known as the “Seven Colored Lake” as a result of its daily and seasonal differentiations in its color, is a wetland of international importance due to its distinctions as a Drinking Water Reservoir, Natural Protected Area and Important Bird Area. It provides water for agriculture, household and industrial use, as well as tourism and energy production. Fishing has traditionally been an important means of livelihood for people living around the lake. Lake Egirdir is mostly used for agricultural purposes. The main agricultural product is the apple.
A local boat on the calm and tranquil lake
As the basin stands out with its apple production, it is important to control pesticide and fertilizer use in the basin. Early warning systems, pesticide preparation units and the use of pheromones will be installed in the village. Furthermore trainings will be held in the basin among farmers, women and children to raise awareness on the importance of Lake Egirdir. The main fish species caught in the lake is Pike-perch. Covered in part with reeds and water lilies, Eğirdir Gölü hosts 91 plant species. Hosting also more than 150 kinds of birds, this rich lake is a highly inviting place of attraction.
Eğridir, as one of the most pristine places, is located at a geography that allows its visitors to indulge in many sporting activities. Hiking, mountain climbing, paragliding, horseback riding, biking, swimming, fishing and many more adventurous sports can be done around the lake. Mountain bike rental is hugely popular in Eğirdir, and many people come here to cycle the forest routes around the lake. In summer full-day boat trips on Lake Eğirdir are the most popular local activity.
Lake Egirdir
10. Visit the lavender and rose fields
This area is one of Turkey's agricultural heartlands, and from spring to fall there's always plenty of harvesting action. For travelers though, it's most well-known for its rose and lavender harvests. The city of Isparta is the center of Turkey's rose industry, and the surrounding countryside produces approximately 60 percent of the world's rose oil, all made from Damask roses, which were brought into Turkey in the late 19th century.
From May to June, rose harvest tours are arranged that involve trips to the major rose fields either in "Rose Valley," near the village of Güneykent, or in the fields around the village of Yeşilyurt. Tours involve helping to harvest the roses and visits to the factories where the roses are processed to make the oil.
If you're in the area later in the summer, the lavender fields around the village of Kuyucak, near Lake Burdur, are in full bloom from July to August. The village promotes itself as Turkey's ‘Lavender Village’ and locals make and sell plenty of lavender products at stalls here. Tours to help harvest the lavender can be arranged in July.
Accommodation
Our Review
For our time in Isparta, we booked into the Bella Suite Apartments through Airbnb. The building is located on a quiet street just a few minutes walk from the main bus station on 29 Sokak. The apartment consists of a decent and well equipped kitchen, comfortable double bedroom and space for hanging clothes in the wardrobe and a nice sized living room with an extra single bed and a large balcony.
As with the majority of our stays in Turkey, hygiene was an issue and the standard of cleanliness and what’s acceptable to present to a customer seems to differ. For the most part, the apartment was fairly clean, however, the kitchen required a deeper cleaning as dirt and dust was easy to find on the surfaces. The kitchen utensils also needed a second cleaning.
The single bed and sofa had a smell of cigarettes, which, once again, seems to be common in Turkey. The smell seems to be covering the walls and deeply ingrained into much of the furniture as we noticed a general sore throat and slight cough when we kept the windows closed for long periods.
The gas cooker is easy to prepare meals with and its cozy to sit and eat at the table. On warmer days, the balcony is lovely to sit outside and do some work, drink coffee or study. The bathroom is a nice size and the water heats up well. To view this apartment and possibly make a booking yourself, you can view the listing here!
The Kitchen
Decent sized and well equipped
Thanks for reading!
