Istanbul
Introduction
We found ourselves based in Istanbul for a total of 3 weeks during our time in Turkey. Each stay involved a different area of the city which in turn meant different vibes, speed of life, food options and things to see. Our first week placed us in the Galata Tower area, at the bottom of the hill in a hardware area. Next we moved to the Balat area on the opposite side of the river which was a lovely, quiet place with colourful buildings and unique cafes. Finally, we stayed in the centre of the city around Taksim Square which is very touristy and a little more pricey. However the apartment was a stone’s throw from Istiklal Street and the metro.
For amazing low cost accommodation in Istanbul, you can find great deals for all budgets at hotelscombined.com. We regularly use this site in our travel searches.
Istiklal Street- the heart of Istanbul for shopping
Istanbul is Turkey’s most populous city as well as its cultural and financial hub. Located on both sides of the Bosphorus, the narrow strait between the Black Sea and the Marmara Sea, Istanbul bridges Asia and Europe both physically and culturally. The population is estimated to be close to 16 million people (2020), making it also one of the largest cities in Europe and the world. The city is divided into several large districts including: Galata (Taksim Sq, Beyoglu, Karakoy), Sultanahmet (Blue Mosque, Hagia Sophia, Grand Bazaar, Balat), the New City (upscale Nisantasi), the Bosphorus (palaces and castles), the Asian Side (Kadikoy, Goztepe, Bagdat Avenue).
Geography
Istanbul is divided in three by the north-south Bosphorus Strait the dividing line between Europe and Asia, the estuary of the Golden Horn (Haliç) bisecting the western part and the Sea of Marmara forming a boundary to the south. Most sights are concentrated in the old city on the peninsula of Sultanahmet, to the west of the Bosphorus between the Horn and the Sea. Across the Horn to the north are Galata, Beyoğlu and Taksim, the heart of modern Istanbul, while Kadıköy is the major district on the comparatively less-visited Anatolian side of the city. The Black Sea forms the northern boundary of Istanbul.
It was worth bearing in mind that Istanbul is very hilly! If you suffer from any heart, breathing or post-Covid conditions, you should be very selective as to where you book your hotel or Airbnb. The Galata Tower area has some extremely steep hills and unfortunately Google maps doesn’t always guide you the right way on the narrow streets. Sultanahmet and Taksim Sq are flatter and I would also recommend staying near a metro station or good public transport.
Climate
Istanbul has a temperate oceanic climate which is influenced by a continental climate, with hot and humid summers and cold, wet and occasionally snowy winters. Istanbul has a high annual average rainfall of 844mm (which is more than that of London, Dublin or Brussels, whose negative reputation Istanbul does not suffer), with late autumn and winter being the wettest, and late spring and summer being the driest. Although late spring and summer are relatively dry when compared to the other seasons, rainfall is significant during these seasons, and there is no dry season as a result.
If there is a negative reputation that Istanbul does suffer from, it is the high annual relative humidity, especially during winter and summer with the accompanying wind chill and concrete-island effect during each respective season.
Summer is generally hot with averages around 27ºC during the day and 18ºC at night. High relative humidity levels and the ‘concrete-island effect’ only make things worse. Expect temperatures of up to 35° C for the hottest days of the year. Summer is also the driest season, but it does infrequently rain. Showers tend to last for 15-30 minutes with the sun usually reappearing again on the same day. Flash floods are a common occurrence after heavy rainfalls (especially during summer), due to the city's hilly topography and inadequate sewage systems.
Winter is cold and wet, averaging 2ºC at night and 7ºC during the day. Although rarely below freezing during the day, high relative humidity levels and the wind chill makes it feel bitterly cold and very unpleasant. Snowfall, which occurs almost annually, is common between the months of December and March.
We visited the city in October and early December. October is very pleasant with some warm days and really nice for walking. The humidity is low and the temperature was around 21-24 degrees. However, a few of the nights were uncomfortable, not falling below 16 and our accom didn’t have a fan. December was considerably cooler with winter starting to bite. The dark evenings and damp feel to the air resembled back home in Ireland. We had a strong storm blow through but also a few bright windless days and 15 degrees. The nights are chilly. However, it’s much more comfortable than northern Europe.
Autumn in Istanbul
A very pleasant time to visit the city
Getting There & Around
Istanbul is served by two main airports: Istanbul New Airport (IST) and Sabiha Gokcen Airport (SAW). The new airport opened to the public in October 2018 and replaced the old Ataturk Airport. We arrived in the city through SAW and departed through IST. Please note that Ataturk Airport does NOT serve passengers any longer and the city only has two airports. We found this a bit of a hassle as some info online will tell you there are 3 airports and Lufthansa even told us our flight was leaving from Ataturk!
The new airport (IST)
Getting into the city from Istanbul New Airport is relatively easy and doable using an Istanbulkart. Go to the Level (-2) of the airport, and on this level there are several large Havaist buses at numbered gates that depart periodically for the city. On this level you can purchase an Istanbulkart (10 Turkish lira) and top up the card for your journey. Top-up machines accept cash bills only. For example, IST to Sultanahmet Square costs 18 TL and the journey is approximately 1-1.5 hours, depending on traffic. Havaist buses use public roads without any allocated lane.
The cheapest way (not recommended) to arrive from Sabiha Gökçen to the European side of Istanbul is by bus (E10 or E11 lines, from Sabiha Gökçen to Kadıköy) + ferry (from Kadiköy to many ferry stations, including some in the Sultanahmet area). Using Istanbulkart or t. Be aware that last ferries are between 10 and 11pm, yet the E10 continues throughout the night.
Havatbus (SAW Airport)
27 Lira: easiest way to get downtown
From SAW airport, (recommend) we took the Havabus which connects this airport with Taksim in the city centre for 27 Lira. You can pay cash on board or with the IstanbulKart. It takes about an hour and a half. There is also a Havatas service to the ferry pier in Kadıköy, a transportation hub of Asian Side. If you arrive in the middle of the night, you can move to the departure hall after passing customs and rest on very comfortable seats — you will even find coin-operated Japanese massage chairs. Then, at 05:00 the first Havabus bus will take you to town.
Essential Tip: The IstanbulKart was an absolute lifesaver for us getting around the city. It can be used on buses, trams and metro lines. Some of the machines in stations didn’t have single tickets and sometimes no tickets at all so people were rushing around trying to figure out how to get a ticket! We bought our cards from an office close to our accom. It has a blue sign on the street which says ‘IstanbulKart’ and is located next to ‘Books and Coffee’ and ‘Milk’ cafes, a few steps from the Karakoy tunnel. Bring your passport!
An essential part of your commute.
Don’t forget to top up!
The Essential Bucket List
Rumeli Fortress
Built between 1451 and 1452 on the orders of Ottoman Sultan Mehmed II, the complex was commissioned in preparation for a planned Ottoman siege on the then- Byzantine city of Constantinople with the goal of cutting off maritime military and logistical relief. After the Ottoman conquest of the city, Rumelihisarı served as a customs checkpoint and occasional prison, notably for the embassies of states that were at war with the Empire. After suffering extensive damage in the Great Earthquake of 1509, the structure was repaired, and was used continuously until the late 19th century.
The Rumelihisarı fortification has one small tower, three main towers, and thirteen small watchtowers placed on the walls connecting the main towers. One watchtower is in the form of a quadrangular prism, six watchtowers are shaped as prisms with multiple corners, and six others are cylindrical. The main tower in the north, Sarıca Pasha Tower, is cylindrical in form, with a diameter of 23.3m. The space within each tower was divided up with wooden floors, each equipped with a furnace.
Getting there: We visited the fortress one morning as its a fantastic excuse to get out of the busy city and enjoy the Bosphorus waterfront and also the stunning Fatih Sultan Mehmet Bridge. From Taksim Square several regular bus services run along the Bosphorus all the way to Rumeli, including the 40T, 42T and 22. If you are based in Sultanahmet, take tram line one to the last stop at Kabatas and change to a bus. We took the brand new line 6 metro and departed at Bogazici University. You can easily get to line 6 by taking line 2 and interchanging at Levent. From there its a lovely walk through the university town with several shops and restaurants before its a steep downhill walk to the fortress.
The ancient theatre
Jose feeling chilly on the cool autumn day at the fortress!
Essential tip: Taking a bus back to Istanbul is definitely recommended to avoid climbing back up to the station!
The fortress was under some renovations (as were many historical sites at the time of our visit) and the towers were restricted in terms of inner entry. However, you can still visit the gardens, the small amphitheatre and climb up the steps to each tower and enjoy the stunning view. Just a handful of people were visiting at the time so we really felt alone there to explore and listen to the birds.
The stunning view
Joey in a world of quiet thoughts and looking out over the Bosphorus
The entrance fee is 30TL and the site is open from 09:00-19:30 (April to October) and 09:00-18:30 in winter. You can find lots more information on this museum as well as other museums throughout Istanbul here.
Sultan Mehmet Bridge
In the 1970s Istanbul had 2 million inhabitants, while today it numbers over 15 million. Over the last 50 years the wealth produced in the city has increased by an annual average of 4.5% and the city’s economy accounts for 40% of the national GDP. The second bridge over the Bosphorus has played a role in the city’s development, boosting trade between the European and Asian shores by 31.8% in the seven years after its opening.
When it was inaugurated, it was the fifth longest suspension bridge in the world, with a span of 1,090 metres, with towers 107 metres high. Its construction required 600,000 metres of rock excavation and 140,000 cubic metres of concrete. Similar to the first bridge over the Bosphorus, the Sultan’s Bridge was built to withstand the region’s frequent earthquakes. Every day around 200,000 vehicles cross the bridge over the Bosphorus.
I would suggest admiring the bridge and taking pictures after you leave the metro station and as you walk down the hill. The view is equally stunning at ground level among the many restaurants and ships passing by. From there, enter the Rumeli Fortress and enjoy the combined infrastructure of modern V’s ancient from several different vantage points.
One reviewer noted: ‘Extremely beautiful, relaxing place, the people of these areas are hospitable and friendly. I enjoyed alot’ (Robinhood, Aug 2021).
A view of the bridge from Rumeli Fortress
Balat and Fener
The districts of Fener, and Balat are possibly the ones that have the richest history in Istanbul. They are also on the list of the UNESCO heritage sites, and yet it is still a region rarely visited by tourists. We enjoyed losing ourselves in these areas wandering around because the atmosphere is really unique.
Joey making friends with the locals
Organized like small villages, the tangle of cobblestone alleys that go up and down gives the impression of being in a labyrinth filled with treasures. The colorful Ottoman houses, some of which are perfectly restored, the religious buildings, the small craftsmen, the merchants, the children playing in the street and the linen hanging from the windows give this area a unique charm.
Fener is also home to several places of worship, some of which are fundamental, such as the Ecumenical Patriarchate of Constantinople, which houses the Church of St. George. Established following the capture of Constantinople, it is an essential place for more than 250 million Orthodox Christians who regard it as their spiritual centre place.
Balat District
The beautiful cobbled and hilly streets are peaceful to explore
Right next to the Fener district is Balat, the former Jewish quarter of Istanbul, which developed from 1492. Nowadays, it is one of the most charming neighborhoods in Istanbul, It is experiencing a new lease of life since the 2000s with the Unesco plan that has allowed the restoration of more than a hundred buildings.
Getting there: Option one: Take tram line one and get off at Eminonu. Walk back towards the river and you will see an outdoor bus station. Take route 99A.
Option two: Continue past the above mentioned bus station until you arrive at tram line 5. Watch out for the construction of the line currently taking place (2021). Take the tram and alight at either Fener or Balat.
Option three: Take metro line 2 and get off at Halic. Cross the bridge and the first bus stop you see will take you to Balat. Many buses stop here for Balat.
Option four: From Taksim Square take bus 55T and enjoy the view! Buses run every 10-15 minutes.
A fantastic new museum and cafe
We had a great breakfast, enjoyed the view from the top floor and chatted for a while with the owner.
Recommend everyone to visit!
We stayed at an Airbnb for a week on Rifat Efendi Sk which was basically a quiet street just behind the two main streets full of quaint cafes, restaurants and small shops: Vodina Cd. and Yildirim Cd. On weekdays you really get a wonderful feel for the area as only a handful of tourists are wondering around and you often have the cafes to yourself with the company of local friendly cats. Each building and house is unique in its shape, colour and design, making this area a real Instagram or photographers dream.
Velvet Cafe -a fantastic and delicious breakfast with antique furniture & lively cats
I would recommend Velvet Cafe for an amazing breakfast surrounded by antique style furniture, Old Balat Cafe Kitchen for delicious meals anytime of day and Tac Burger for, quite possibly, the most delicious and incredible burgers I’ve ever tasted. Real home cooked food right in front of you! Several cheap and tasty doner places can also be found. For a more authentic food experience, head up the hill past the Orthodox School and into the Jewish /Muslim area for local bakeries, shops, supermarkets and cafes at lower prices.
Dolmabahce Palace
Dolmabahçe Palace is located in the Beşiktaş district of Istanbul on the European coast of the Bosporus strait and it served as the main administrative center of the Ottoman Empire from 1856 to 1887 and from 1909 to 1922. The palace was completed it 1856 and the Sultan relocated here from Topkapi Palace as he believed Topkapi was lacking in European standards of luxury and comfort. The palace housed six Sultans until 1924.
Dolmabahçe is the largest palace in Turkey. It has an area of 45,000 m2 (11.1 acres), and contains 285 rooms, 46 halls, 6 baths and 68 toilets.The design contains eclectic elements from the Baroque, Rococo and Neoclassical styles, blended with traditional Ottoman architecture to create a new form. The palace layout and décor reflect the increasing influence of European styles and standards on Ottoman culture and art during the Tanzimat period. The exterior, in particular the view from the Bosporus, shows a classical European two-wing arrangement.
The world's largest Bohemian crystal chandelier is in the Ceremonial Hall. The chandelier was originally assumed to have been a gift from Queen Victoria; in 2006, however, a receipt was discovered showing it had been paid for in full by the Sultan. It has 750 lamps and weighs 4.5 tonnes. Also, a collection of 202 oil paintings are on display in the palace.
The palace exterior
The stunning front entrance gate
Getting there: Take tram line one to the terminus at Kabatas and continue walking for 5 minutes until you reach the gates.
You must go through a quick security check and continue to the ticket box. Tickets for adults cost 120 Lira (around 12 Euro). You can enter and explore on your own. Information on each room is in English. We were very impressed by the size, scale and grandeur of the palace. Taking our time to explore, we spent around two hours there. Sadly it is forbidden to take pictures inside. The grounds are equally as beautiful and you must not miss the stunning white gates looking onto the Bosphorus for a photo opportunity!
The grounds contain a water feature and tall mature trees
Essential tip: Don’t be like us arriving in the afternoon! It was quite busy and a little frustrating with people hovering over your shoulder. Social distancing appears to disappear from their minds. Arrive early in the morning when it opens to really enjoy the palace and grounds to yourself. Opening times are 9am - 4pm, closed on Monday.
The pearly white gates!
A great photo opportunity but don’t fall over the edge!
Galata Tower and cobbled hilly streets
The Galata Tower is a well known and distinct part of Istanbul’s landscape on the European side. The area surrounding the tower is bursting with gorgeous and unique cafes, restaurants and boutique shops. It is a popular tourist area in the city. Although Galata is very hilly, making it difficult to walk sometimes, the cobbled streets are a pleasure to explore. The tower and surrounding area is very accessible by public transport.
Considered among the oldest towers in the world and one of the symbols of Istanbul, Galata Tower (Galata Kulesi) was included in the UNESCO World Heritage Temporary List in 2013. Galata Tower, one of the most important structures that make up the silhouette of Istanbul, was used as a long-term fire watchtower and was named Galata Fire Tower. Galata Tower was first built by the Byzantine Emperor Justinianos in 507-508 AD. The Genoese rebuilt the current tower in 1348-49. The round arched window above the door was the lookout for the soldiers. It is a nine-story building after the high ground floor. The windows on the cylindrical body are brick-knit circular arches.
The Galata area
Enjoy the pleasant streets, especially in autumn when the crowds are much lower
Getting there: Take metro line 2 to Sishane and walk 5 minutes along Galip Dede Cd. Alternatively, you can take the tunnel tram from Karakoy which leaves you on Istiklal Street, 6-7 minutes walk.
Opening hours: 8:30am to midnight. Price: 100 Lira (Adult).
While in the area, I recommend stopping by a number of cafes and restaurants including: TomTom Kebab, Velvet Cafe, Federal Galata, Milk Karakoy and Books and Coffee. Furthermore, if you require a decent laundry service, we went to Elif Laundry twice and they provide a fantastic service. The price is 50 Lira per load. Stay away from the laundry places near Taksim as they are way overpriced!
Grimm Tattoo: A very special mention must go out to Emre who works in Grimm Tattoo, next to the Sishane metro exit. He provides an excellent, comfortable service with high quality tattoos in a clean environment. I was thoroughly satisfied with the 3D biomechanical design on my arm. He is beyond professional and dedicated. I had two sessions of 5.5 hours each and the total price came to 5000 Lira.
Visit the mosques
One thing that is striking about Istanbul’s landscape are the number of stunningly designed and large mosques that are dotted around the city. Needless to say, within a few hours of arriving, you are fully aware of your closeness to a mosque when the call to prayer begins, three times a day! The first one is around 6am, so if you enjoy your beauty sleep then I suggest taking some hardy earplugs with you. If you are an early morning riser, then it’s the perfect alarm clock! I will just briefly outline the most important mosques and their location below, if you are short on time.
The Hagia Sophia: It served as a center of religious, political, and artistic life for the Byzantine world and has provided us with many useful scholarly insights into the period. It was built as a Christian church in the 6th century. After the Turkish conquest of Constantinople in 1453, Mehmed II had it repurposed as a mosque. In 1985 the Hagia Sophia was designated a component of a UNESCO World Heritage site called the Historic Areas of Istanbul.
Getting there: Tram line one to Sultanahmet stop.
Opening times: 24 hours. In 2021 the Hagia Sofía has been converted to a mosque and is no longer a museum. Entrance is free for tourists outside of prayer times.
The Hagia Sophia
The Blue Mosque: The Blue Mosque, is an Ottoman-era historical imperial mosque located in Istanbul, Turkey. A functioning mosque, it also attracts large numbers of tourist visitors. It was constructed between 1609 and 1616 during the rule of Ahmed I. Big parts of the south shore of the mosque rest on the foundations, the vaults of the old Grand Palace. The interior of the mosque is lined with more than 20,000 handmade İznik style ceramic tiles and more than 200 stained glass windows with intricate designs admit natural light, today assisted by chandeliers.
Getting there: Tram line one to Sultanahmet stop. The mosque is directly opposite the Hagia Sophia on the large square.
Opening times: visiting hours are 9am to 6pm, 7 days a week. Non-worshiping visitors may not enter the mosque during prayer sessions.
The New Mosque: The exterior of the mosque itself boasts 66 domes and semi domes in a pyramidal arrangement, as well as two minarets. The main dome measures 36 metres (118 feet) in height, and is supported by four flanking semi-domes. Also called Yeni Cami, it dominates the ferry docks in Eminonu in at the southern end of Galata Bridge. It’s not new! having been constructed between 1597 and 1663. Its common name is an abbreviated version of its proper name.
In April /May 2012, the James Bond movie Skyfall was filmed around this area and the Spice Bazaar.
Getting there: Take tram line one to Eminonu stop.
Opening times: As with the other mentioned mosques, you can visit outside of prayer time.
Other historical mosques worth a visit: Suleymaniye Camii, Fatih Mosque, Rustem Pasha, Buyuk Ortakoy and Eyüp Sultan Camii.
July 15th Martyr’s Bridge and Ortakoy Mosque
This is a beautiful part of the Bosphorus to relax and enjoy the suspension bridge located behind the Ortakoy Mosque. Upon its completion in 1973, the Bosphorus Bridge had the fourth longest suspension bridge span in the world, and the longest outside the United States. After a group of soldiers took control and partially closed off the bridge during the military coup attempt on 15 July 2016, Prime Minister Binali Yildirim proclaimed on 25 July 2016 the decision of the Cabinet of Turkey that the bridge will be formally renamed as the July 15th Martyrs Bridge in memory of those killed while resisting the attempted coup.
The bridge, spanning 1510 meters over the Bosphorus, connects the districts Beşiktaş and Üsküdar. Since 1979, the Bosphorus Bridge has been part of the route of the traditional Istanbul Marathon, the only marathon in the world which spans two continents. The bridge is open to pedestrians only on the day of the marathon and only for the runners. Once designed as a pedestrian bridge with stunning views of Istanbul, it was closed to pedestrians due to a high number of people committing suicide.
July 15th Martyr’s Bridge
The area bustles with small cafes and restaurants. Arrive early before the crowds build up.
Information boards
Information on most historical and places of importance is easy to locate in both English and Turkish around the city.
Ortakoy Mosque was designed and built in 1853 by an Armenian architect, Garabet Balyan, and his son Nigoğayos Balyanl, who were also responsible for the nearby Dolmabahce Palace. It was during the same century that the mosque rose to a higher level of importance on the European side of Istanbul. It is also known as “Great Mecidiye Mosque” and is one of the most beautiful samples of the Baroque architecture in Istanbul. The mosque was severely damaged during the earthquake of 1894.
Ortakoy Mosque
A smaller mosque stood in its place but was destroyed prior to Ortakoy being built.
Taksim Square and Istiklal Street
Taksim square, with its location leading to the monument, Gezi park, domed church of Aya Triada, nostalgic tram, Huseyin Aga Mosque and famous Istiklal Street, is the most popular square in Istanbul as well as in Turkey. Taksim Square is a cosmopolitan one, also a communications hub and an important commercial, entertainment and sightseeing area for both locals and tourists in Istanbul. The monument commemorates the 5th anniversary of the foundation of the Republic of Turkey in 1923, following the Turkish War of Independence.
The historical Taksim Square
The square has been an important venue for political protests during much of its existence. Groups from all sides of the political spectrum in Turkey, as well as many NGOs, try to demonstrate in this square in order to use its visibility for the benefit of their cause. In the events known as the Taksim Square massacre, 36 left-wing demonstrators were killed by unidentified and allegedly right-wing gunmen on the square during the Labour Day demonstrations of May 1, 1977.
We based ourselves at a small studio apartment for a week, close to the square. It was a pretty ideal location, however, the noise from the street and the volume of the nearby mosque could get very annoying at times. The apartment itself was clean and had all the kitchen essentials. A couple of supermarkets provided everything we needed. The metro station at Taksim Square was close and I would also recommend this accomodation if you suffer from breathing issues and wish to avoid hills. The area also has many local barber shops, doner stops, fruit and veg shops and cafes. I would absolutely recommend Nour Style barbers who really pay attention to detail and make you feel welcome. I had a great chat with Fade Saeid (mostly via translator).
Marida residence
Around 28 Euro per night for a nice, clean and friendly studio flat.
Fade Saeid
He will take good care of your hair and beard, offers you tea and a friendly chat if you are patient. He really wants to visit Ireland!
Istiklal Avenue is the main shopping street of Istanbul and is connected directly with Taksim Square. Apparently some three million people visit the street on a typical weekend day! it is an elegant pedestrian street, 1.4 kilometres long, which houses boutiques, music stores, book shops, art galleries, cinemas, libraries, theatres, nightclubs, pubs, chocolate shops, restaurants and more. The avenue is surrounded by late Ottoman era buildings. Plenty of international brand shops line the street, if that’s your thing and you need new clothes too.
In the historic Galata district towards the southern end of the avenue, it is possible to see the world's second-oldest subway station, generally known and referred to as simply Tunel (The Tunnel) which entered service in 1875. The cosmopolitan avenue is surrounded by an array of historical and politically significant buildings. Tourists can also travel the distance of the street on a novelty tram which takes you from Taksim all the way to the tunnel.
We visited the street several times for food, cafes off the main street and a local cheap gym. However, be warned that in the afternoon and on the weekend, the street gets quite crowded and can be overbearing with people. One of the local restaurants we made it to twice is called Lookanta and is closer to the Taksim end of Istiklal. It’s a buffet style place with chefs serving you large portions down a long counter. Portions are very generous and everything is so delicious, including the rice pudding!
Delicious local food
You can’t beat the service, price and quality of food especially on a high street.
We also recommend Flash Gym for your workouts. They only charge four euro each for a day pass, have plenty of equipment and have a relaxed vibe. The gym is a little tricky to find- you must enter what looks like a small clothing market and take the elevator to the 4th floor. In terms of cafes, take a walk in the backstreets or down the hill into Galata for a peaceful coffee. The cafes along Istiklal always seem to be packed with people.
Flash Gym
The gym also appears under ‘gay friendly’ when you search for LGBT safe spaces in Istanbul
The Grand Bazaar
You really can’t say you visited Istanbul if you haven’t been welcomed by the merchants at the Grand Bazaar. Built in 1461 to stimulate the economy, this covered market has captivated the imagination of the world, especially writers of the romantic epoch such as Edmondo de Amicis and Théophile Gautier.
An English writer commented in 1870 that a tour around the inner Bedesten could ruin a few Rothschild families. Despite this, theft occurred extremely rarely, even when the merchants would leave their shops unlocked. Continuously restored, each step is an opportunity for photographers, and shopaholics may be delighted to know that the world’s oldest shopping mall is so massive that they can’t conquer it in a day. Fortunately, it’s open 6 days a week between 08:30 and 19:00, so you have plenty of time to explore the 64 streets that house over 4,000 shops, 26,000 employees and welcome between 250,000-400,000 visitors per year.
Turkey’s famous carpets have captivated European fascination even before the Victorians. The weaving technique dates to at least the 4th or 5th century, and these precious, authentic rugs aren’t just pretty; each pattern is a symbol. If you’re not an expert in buying rare carpets, just choose the one you love the most. Some of the most well known and trustworthy carpet sellers include Sisko Osman and Sengor Halilari. For jewellery lovers, Sevan Bicakci and Kafkas Jewellery come highly recommended.
After a full day of touring the bazaar, you can feel your stomach rumbling. If you want something to both satiate your stomach and create a party upon your tastebuds, there are plenty of cafes and restaurants to choose from within the bazaar. Havuzlu, Nusr-Et Steakhouse and Şeyhmuz Kebap have great reviews from travellers and locals. For a nice coffee fix in a pleasant surroundings, try Cafe le Fondue or Lidyali.
The Archaeology Museum
The Istanbul Archaeology Museum consists of three buildings: Archaeological Museum (in the main building), The Museum of the Ancient Orient and The Museum of Islamic Art. Over one million artefacts are found among the three museums.
Since an imperial decree protecting cultural goods in the Ottoman Empire was enforced, many governors from the provinces would send in found artefacts to the capital city. In that way the museum was able to amass a great collection. Upon its 100th anniversary in 1991, the museum received the European Council Museum Award, particularly for the renovations made to the lower floor halls in the main building and the new displays in the other buildings.
The construction of the main building was started by Osman Hamdi Bey in 1881, attaining its present neo-Greek form in 1908. The Museum of the Ancient Orient was commissioned by Osman Hamdi Bey in 1883 as a fine arts school. Then it was reorganised as a museum, which opened in 1935.
Archaeology Museum
Impressive artefacts can be found throughout each museum
The Tiled Kiosk was commissioned by Sultan Mehmed II in 1472. It is one of the oldest structures in Istanbul featuring Ottoman civil architecture, and was a part of the Topkapı Palace outer gardens. It was used as the Imperial Museum between 1875 and 1891 before the collection moved to the newly constructed main building. It was opened to public in 1953.
The ornate Alexander Sarcophagus, once believed to be prepared for Alexander the Great is among the most famous pieces of ancient art in the museum. The museum has a large collection of Turkish, Hellenistic and Roman artifacts.
The sarcophagus
Dozens of stunning and impressively designed sarcophagus can be viewed with detailed descriptions in English and Turkish.
Getting there: Gulhane tram stop on line one.
The museum is open from 9am - 6:30pm and costs 60 Lira entry. Admission is free for those under eight.
One reviewer noted: ‘It was an amazing experience visiting the Archeological Museum in Istanbul. It has so many collections from different age and location. I wish we had more time to spend there’ (Shawkat, October 2021).
The entrance to the Ancient Orient building
The museum garden and grounds.
Impressive artefacts and sculptures can be viewed throughout the grounds.
This particular spot is next to the museum cafe which is reasonably priced.
Thanks for reading!
